The AP Royal Oak has long been a classic on the wrist. Over the years, there have been different sizes of the watch on the market. To cater to modern wrist sizes, the watch has become bigger and bigger and the current version is now 41mm big. While it is nothing wrong to follow the trend, I do think the 39mm version is the best size for a Royal Oak.

This 15300or here is a watch from year 2005. The first owner is an English gentleman who owned a law firm before he retired.  The watch features a 39mm rose gold case on a brown alligator strap with a deployant buckle. The movement is the famous AP Caliber 3120 which is referred to by many as “one of the greatest automatic movements”. The finishing is of the highest end of course and the rotor is also something to behold. The dial features AP’s signature petit tapisserie patterns which takes hours to finish.

 

 

Having worn this watch for a few months now, I feel that 39mm is really the perfect size for an Royal Oak. The case of a Royal Oak is actually bigger than what the official size tells you as the size only measures from edges of the bezel, excluding the other part of the case. When the watch is on the wrist, it is not at all like any 39mm watch as it has so many sharp edges reflecting light like nothing else. As a dressy sports watch, the size is just about right. The 41mm version is surely more sporty but it seems to have less sophistication in it. It is also more showy and less understated to me while some wrists will also find it too big due to the Royal Oak case’s design. Also, the big 3D AP logo on the 15300 is way sharper than the way smaller logo on the 15400or. The lack of the hour index at 3 o’ clock also avoids overcrowding there with the date window. The date wheel on the 15300 is also more readable with black printing against a white background while the 15400 date wheel has white printing against a black background.

 

On a brown leather strap the 15300or is good for any occasion. While the bracelet version is way more shiny, it is more of a Rolex style, which is not very appropriate for a Royal Oak which is supposed to be way more classy.  But would the strap decrease the watch’s sportiness? Not at all. Due to the octagon case design and the sharp edges all over the watch, with casual wear, it is always a star on one’s wrist and the case stands out even more on a leather strap due to the color and material contrast.

 

Overall speaking, the 15300or is a perfect watch to match any casual or dressy wear. Being a rose gold watch, it is both understated and classy due to its not having a rose gold bracelet. The finishing of both the case and the movement is absolutely top-notch. A full set 15300or is now around 170,000 – 190,000 HKD now depending on its condition.

 

This watch here is for sale at 180,000HKD full set. Please contact me if interested.

The ref 1680/8 Rolex gold Submariner was produced from around 1969-1978. It was released as a sporty elegant watch and it was the first gold Submariner ref in Rolex history. Today, it has become one of the most collectible vintage Rolex ref.

Compared to its steel counterpart, the 1680 steel, the 1680/8 was made in much fewer quantities as not many people in those days could afford a solid gold watch. While a steel 1680 can be more easily found to be in good condition, a gold 1680 in good condition could be a rather rare find as gold tends to age easier than steel given the fact that it is much softer.

Early 1680/8 came with a meters first dial which is very collectible nowadays. It is also said that the early version could be paired with inserts of white fonts, just like those on the steel 1680. On later ones, the 1680/8 came with a 600ft first dial.

The insert should be the MK 3 fat font insert. Earlier inserts have no gold ring surround the pearl while later inserts have a gold ring surrounding the pearl and the gold ring should be right within the triangle. The crown of the 1680/8 should be a 700 triplock crown without the three dots while those before 1972 used a twinlock crown. Also, there should not be any external O ring.

The bracelet of the 1680/8 should be the 9290/8 and there is no bracelet code on the clasp and there is no marking on the end links. One must be aware that those stamped with 92908 on the clasp are later replacement bracelets. The removable links on the bracelet are push pin type instead of using screws.

The 1680 gold is absolutely a very collectible piece. An example in good condition should have a fat case, a correct insert, a clean dial and a correct bracelet.  A 1680/8 can fetch around 320,000-350,000 hkd depending on its condition. When comparing to the later 16808 with sapphire crystal and also a nipple dial, the 1680/8 displays a more vintage style with its top hat plexi crystal. Also, the dial markings are smaller on the 1680/8 and its 6 o’ clock and 12 o’ clock hour markers are longer making the dial visually smaller. A good 1680/8 dial must also have sharp gold printings on the fonts and minute markers. It is in conclusion a good gold watch for people of any age as it is less showy than modern gold Rolex. it is more a sign of taste.

The 11652x Daytona generation came in 2000 with a so called “old buckle” or “short buckle”. In around 2007-2008, the M series, came the change from the “short buckle” to the “long buckle”. Some prefer the “short buckle” for its aesthetics and uniqueness while some prefer the new for its functionality.

The “short buckle” is unique as it has more curves than the new one. It was also used only by the Daytona from 2000-2008. It is shorter and the clasp is smaller. Operating it may not be as easy as the “long buckle”, but it is absolutely more attractive in terms of aesthetics. It looks weaker than the “long buckle” while having a shape that displays more curves.

The “long buckle”, on the other hand, is way more substantial. It is more hefty and substantial. Operating it is also easier as it is longer and the clasp is bigger. However, it is less unique as the GMT Master II also uses the same buckle. The shape of it contains less curves and looks stronger.

I personally prefer the “short buckle” as the shape of it is way more unique. Although it may not be as good as the “long buckle’ while operating, it fits the image of the Daytona more as a sporty elegant watch.

 

The Zenith Daytona 16520 and 16528 have been quite hot on the market lately. While the early versions, such as the floating dial, porcelain dial and inverted 6 dial, are quite pricey now, the later versions are still worth getting as prices are more affordable.

The 16528 U series is a good choice as it is the last year Rolex produced its dials with tritium. Some late U series have luminova dials while early ones still have tritium dials. The 16528 is special as the three sub dials are more yellowish than its steel counterpart 16520. Patrizzi dials of 16520 with dark yellow or brown sub dials are very sort after. The sub dials on the 16528 give you a similar hue while the model carries a rather affordable price tag.

The correct tritium dial of the U 16528 should not have inverted 6 on the sub dial at 6 o clock and it should not have rounded numbers. Minute markings should be fat but not thin. It should have a MK5 bezel on which the letters of HOURS are closely spaced. (https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/different-bezels-for-automatic-daytonas-t17026.html)

The correct bracelet of the 16528 should be the 78668 with solid end link. The end link code should be stamped inside the end link but not outside.

As steel watches are getting more and more expensive, the 16528 is actually getting more and more collectible given its relatively good prices compared to its steel counterpart.

 

2020 has just come. 2019 was a fruitful year for me as I had the chances to acquire several lovely timepieces.

Here are some of the best watches I got in 2019:

In the world of vintage Rolex, the 5513 is quite an essential piece for any collector. Given its timeless design and different variants, the 5513 is one of the most favored reference for collectors worldwide.

The 5513 is different from the 1680 as the latter has a date window at 3 o’ clock. Without the date function, the 5513 features a clean dial that is one of the most classic in the world of dive watches. The 5513 was produced from around 1962-1989 and it had a very long production run. Throughout those years, the 5513 had different dial variants.

The matte dial 5513s were produced from around 1966, when the glossy gilt era ended, to 1984, when the lacquered glossy dial with white gold surroundings came. The Meters First dials were produced from s/n 1.6 in 1966 to around s/n 2.2 in 1970. The main feature is that the depth rating on the dial writes “200m=660ft” instead of “660ft=200m” in later variants. Other features include :

• starting from the top of the dial, the “L” in “ROLEX” should have very little if any serif on top and should be centered under the coronet.
• the “6’s” in the depth rating are semi-open
• the “SWISS – T < 25” marking at the bottom of the dial is across a total of five minute hash marks at the bottom of the dial. (info from www.5513mattedial.com)

A 5513 Meters First is collectible because it was produced only from around 1966 to 1970. It is relatively rare and the distinct “meters first” feature was not to be seen in any later dial variants. A nice 5513 Meters First should have a clean dial without any broken minute markers or dirty lume. Also, the case should be fat and not overpolished, retaining as much the original shape as it can. It is best to be paired with a Swiss 7206 rivet bracelet which is relatively rare nowadays. The insert has to be a fat font MK3 insert instead of later thin font insert.

In the photos here is my 5513 Meters First 2.0mil s/n on a 7206 rivet bracelet from the same year the watch was manufactured. It features a mesmerizing ghost insert and it comes with an extra slightly faded MK3 fat font insert. The case is super fat and the dial is clean.

A 7206 rivet bracelet can cost up to 20k hkd while a MK3 insert can cost around 15-18k hkd. An average 5513 Meters First’s market price is around 135,000hkd while those in better condition or on rivet bracelets is around 150,000-160,000 hkd.

The Rolex Daytona has long been the brand’s hit item. For the 18k gold version, the “Paul Newman” dial, a black dial with champagne gold sub dials, is the most popular version. The newest 116508 with PN dial has some slightly different details that are not easy to spot.

First of all, the dial of the 116508 is around 1mm larger than that on the 116528. Secondly, the bezel slope is slightly steeper so that the bezel appears to be less think than the 116528. Also, the numbers on the sub dials are thinner than those on the 116528. While the movement remains the same, the new standard of accuracy is not +2/-2 per day. The central chronograph hand is orange red which is lighter than the sharp red on the 116508. Last but not least, the most obvious difference is the change of the markers on the bezel. The bezel now has thicker markers on the tachymeter, just like its counterparts in white gold and rose gold.

Some may prefer the newer version of the gold Daytona. It does definitely has its own advantages and one of them is that the dial looks a bit larger while the bezel looks a bit less thick. It makes the watch look a bit bigger. Also, the new tachymeter style on the bezel is much sharper. However, these two aesthetics changes may well be why you should actually consider a 116528 instead. Why?

The thick bezel has long been the Daytona’s classic signature. The thick fonts of the new tachymeter on the bezel may look sharp but it also somehow looks too busy. To me,, the 116528 is a more classic choice. Also, the new 116508 PN’s central chronograph hand is not as sharp as the  one on the 116528.

While some may consider buying a 116528 of later years with random serials, these may not be as collectible as those from 2000-2003. In these three years, the 116528 was produced with skinny hands and a shorter buckle. The short buckle is definitely a signature of the Daytona 11652x as it was produced just for the Daytona. The skinny hands were replaced by thicker hands in around 2004. Price wise, these earlier 116528 are cheaper than the later version.

The 116528 here is a P series one from Year 2001 with skinny hands and old buckle. The old buckle is more elegant-looking than the new buckle while the new buckle is more practical to some. The watch here comes with guarantee paper, tags and service paper.

The Rolex 16808 is the 18k gold version of the 16800, which was the transitional Submariner that was produced between around 1977-1985. It replaced the ref 1680 and the 16808 replaced the 18k gold 1680/8.

The most obvious difference between a 1680/8 and a 16808 was the use of sapphire crystals on 16808 instead of plexi crystals on 1680/8. The movement was also upgraded to 3035 with the quick set feature that allows you to set the date quickly. The depth rating also improved to 1000 ft/ 300 M instead of 200m. These features make the 16808 a more usable daily watch.

Through the production of the 16808, it featured both the nipple matte dial and the glossy lacquer dial with markers with white gold surroundings. On its predecessor the 1680/8, one of  the biggest features is its nipple dial. Therefore, as the last generation of Submariner that featured the nipple dial, the nipple dial version of the 16808 is more expensive than the lacquer dial with markers with white gold surrounding, which can still be found on 16808’s successor, the 16618.

The correct bracelet for a 16808 should be a 92908 bracelet with 46 end link. The number 46 is engraved on the inner part of the end link which is only visible when it is taken off from the case. The insert of the 16808 is the typical 80s Submariner insert which no longer features fat fonts as those on 1680/8.

The 16808 with a nipple matte dial is a cool watch itself as it has the best of two different generations of Submariner. While you can find vintage cues from the nipple matte dial, a modern touch, which is the sapphire crystal, blends the two generations together perfectly in one watch. The movement is also way more convenient and reliable while the bracelet is also much tougher.

The investment value of a 16808 is high while it is not as hard to be found as the 1680/8. As it was a watch produced in the 1980s, it is easier to find examples in good condition. Also, the threshold of collecting it is not as high as 1680/8. A 16808 without papers and box is usually around 220,000hkd to 230,000hkd while a 1680/8 in good condition could cost you north of 300,000hkd. The 16808 with nipple dial is a collectible piece that gives you the looks of a 1680/8 while paying way less.

The photos here are from my 8.5mil 16808 unpolished. It does not come with any paper and it is for sale at 216,000hkd.

      

The Legendary Reverso

A Reverso has two sides, hence its name. The dial on a Reverso is much like a painting because of its rectangular shape. A Reverso is somehow like a book as well, especially when you turn it to see the other side of the watch. It is much like flipping a book’s pages.

The Reverso “Chocolate”

In rose gold, this watch has a grand size of 46.8 x 27.4mm. Thanks to its size, it does not look too small on bigger wrists. The dial has a very strong vintage feeling with its chocolate brown color, arrow-shaped hour markers with aged lume, railway track minute markers and a sub-dial for seconds display. The sword hands are plated with rose gold. Together we see a design which sticks to its ancestors’ in the 1930s. The other side of the case is blank, leaving you space for any engraving.

The Casa Fagliano strap

What is better is that the watch comes with a shell cordovan strap by Casa Fagliano, an Argentinian polo boots maker. The brown shell cordovan strap has special stitching style that complements very well with the striped case.

The movement

Inside this watch is the JLC movement 822/2 which has 45 hours of power reserve. It is manually wound and the winding is very smooth.

On the wrist

On the wrist, this watch is perfect for occasions like formal dinners and business meetings. Because of its size, it is also a good piece to wear when you want something understated yet charming to decorate your wrist on a casual day.

Conclusion

All in all, this watch is a truly amazing piece. It has all the vintage elements a watch lover would like to see. The brown dial is almost like a tropical dial but it is not. The strap is really cool and it completes the vintage puzzle for the watch , as this watch will certainly be downgraded by any other strap .

  

The Portuguese Collection

The Portuguese Collection has long been one of IWC’s most iconic collections. It features watches that look classic but retains bits of modern design. An IWC Portuguese is always easy to recognize. Design features, such as leaf-shaped hands, railway track chapter ring, Arabic numerals and classic case shape, make the Portuguese one of the most successful collections for IWC. The Portuguese 50237 Perpetual Calendar here is in white gold with an Ardoise dial.

Case

The case size of the watch is 44mm and it is 15.5mm thick. This imposing size has been the tradition of the Portuguese collection. The case has a polished concave bezel, a brushed middle case and a polished display case back. The bezel reflects light in an elegant way and its concave shape make it extraordinarily classy to look at and it perfectly complements the box-type crystal. The lugs are curved and polished on the surfaces while brushed on the sides.

Dial and hands

There are a lot to read on the dial. At 12 o’ clock, you have the moonphase display and the brand logo on it. The moon is polished and is silver in color while the sky and stars are grey and silver to match the dial color and the white gold case. At 9 o’ clock, there is the sub-dial for seconds and days. The display of months is at 6 o’ clock. The power reserve indicator and the display of dates are in the same sub-dial at 3 o’ clock. Also not to be missed is the display ofyears at 7 o’ clock.

As a perpetual calendar, this watch can adjust automatically during the end of each 31-day and 30-day month. It can also track leap years automatically. The watch needs no adjustment until the year 2499 and the moonphase display will be accurate for more than 500 years.

The dial layout is clear and easy to read as most texts are in a contrasting white color. The Arabic numbers and the railway track chapter ring are there to highlight its Portuguese bloodline. The grey sunburst, under different lighting, gives out different shades of grey.

The hands, long and leaf-shaped, sweep round the dial in a classy and clear fashion every time you adjust the time.

The movement

The watch is equipped with an IWC Caliber 51613, which is a rather big movement as it is about 38mm in diameter and it is quite big as the case itself is 44mm. It has a power reserve of 7 days, or 168 hours, ensured by a single barrel. It is a very substantial amount of power and a 7-day power reserve will spare you the trouble of winding the watch all the time. The movement has a rotor that has a solid gold IWC medallion and it uses the Pellaton winding system which uses pawls rather than direct gearing between the rotor and barrel. This helps isolate the gear train from shocks.

As mentioned before, the movement itself is quite big. When you look at the case back, you can have a feast. It is quite an imposing view when you compare its size to smaller movements on watches like an Royal Oak Offshore. The rotor, the plates and the wheels look way larger than other movements.

Strap and buckle

This watch comes with a finely finished glossy black alligator strap and a robust IWC deployant buckle. The strap is particularly nice as it has orange lining with white stitching while on the front it has black matching stitching.

Conclusion

As one of the most recognized watch in the world, a Portuguese is widely worn by businessmen and suit wearers. Surely, the big case size means that it can always go with any casual wear. On the wrist, it has a lot of wrist presence and its substantial weight  make it hard to be neglected. Even with a t-shirt and jeans, this IWC Portuguese Perpetual calendar will impress.

Also, this watch is quite affordable compared to other perpetual calendars produced by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and the like. With a white gold case at 44mm and good functionality, this is a brilliant watch for anyone who looks for a perpetual calendar.