Hong Kong Watch Blog

For buyers:

1. Do your homework.

Always do enough research before buying especially for vintage and neo vintage timepieces. Their values can vary depending on whether they have the correct dials, inserts or bracelets.

 

2. Ask for clear photos and videos

Don’t be impulsive when you see a seemingly beautiful watch. Always ask for photos and videos under different lighting and angles to check clearly whether the piece is up to your standard.

 

3. Ask for reference and check online

Sometimes, the seller’s reputation tells a lot. Of course, it is better to view each piece independently but checking on the seller always helps. You can look for his/her reference online and see whether he/she is reliable to buy from.

 

4. Don’t be too harsh

Being careful is one thing, being harsh is another. If you are buying something online, you cannot expect photos and videos to be as clear as seeing the watch in person under a loupe. Do ask questions when you are in doubt but make sure those questions do not make you look dumb or harsh. The same applies to negotiating on prices.

 

For sellers:

 

1. Be patient

You need to have ready photos and videos to show clearly the condition of the watch. It can always smoothen the deal. Explaining honestly to the client and make full disclosure of the condition of the watch is essential. After all, your client s are not buying a carrot or potato. They need to know everything and every part of the watch clearly.

 

2. Don’t be impatient

Impatient sellers never make deals happen in today’s world where everything can be researched online. Buyers have a lot of choices. Being impatient just makes you look bad and you will be easily searched for your impatient treatment to your clients. One example: I once asked Scott of Hqmilton about the spring bars of a Daytona and he asked me if I understood they were operating at a high level.

 

3. Be friendly

I know you are selling expensive watches but it does not mean you have to be unfriendly. Buyers ask questions to ensure themselves much like when you are buying something for yourself. Attitude is very important when it comes to entertaining your buyers. Having bad attitude only shows how ignorant you are since there are many other people selling more expensive things than watches.

 

4. Don’t be lazy

By lazy I mean not willing to do enough research on the watches you are selling. Sometimes, clients even know better than sellers. It is almost a joke. Surely we all learn something new and it is a journey, but it is better to make sure you know well about the watches you are selling.

 

5. Don’t hide anything

It is unfair for you to hide anything from your clients. What is more is that when what you try to hide is exposed, it does a lot more damage to you as it will be circulated quickly through social media. You are expected to have good knowledge.

It is no secret that online shopping has become very popular now. For luxury watches, Chrono24 is a platform that has gained a lot of popularity in the past ten years. However, for some, it may still be a bit insecure to buy from this platform. So, what does Chrono24 really offer?

Anything new, used or vintage

One of the best things about Chrono24 is that you can almost find anything there. Any model from any brand, either new or used, can be found on Chrono24. Information and prices are very transparent there for you to compare. You can enjoy a good search easily in the watch world for anything from Rolex to Seiko or Patek Philippe to G-shock. Any individuals or dealers can buy and sell on this platform making it one of the best online watch platforms in the world

The “Trusted Checkout”

After you have found something you want, you may wonder : “Is it safe to buy?” Chrono24’s “Trusted Checkout” can make you rest assured. Your payment is actually kept by an escrow account of Chrono24. After you receive the watch from the seller, you will have 7 days to inspect it and only if everything is fine will your money be released to the seller. If anything is wrong, you can contact Chrono24 for a solution.

The mighty “Watch Scanner”

Tiring searches on Google on watches are no longer needed with Chrono24’s “Watch Scanner” feature. With just one photo, you can scan your watch and get all the information including the specs and prices of it.  It is easy and convenient. Just download the Chrono24 app and launch the watch scanner feature to start your journey in the watch world.

What is good to buy?

For investment or personal wear, Rolex has been a very popular choices for a long time especially in the last couple years.  The pandemic has made production numbers drop and prices of Rolex watches have soared a lot. Not many watches are available in boutiques due to low production numbers and it is a safer option to buy them online due to the pandemic. I would recommend the Daytona collection and the Submariner “Hulk”.

The 116500 ceramic Daytona is a very good choice for investment or personal wear. The Daytona has very rich history associated with racing and it has been a very sought-after model for a long time. The 116500 ranges from 230,000hkd to 300,000hkd now depending on the dial colour and condition. The white dial “Panda” is more popular than the black dial version at the moment given its stronger visual contrast and its reminder of vintage Daytona like the 6263 and 6265.

The discontinued 116520 is another good model to buy if you prefer polished steel bezels. The black dial version used to be more popular while the white dial version has caught up in value due to the popularity of the white 116500. I would recommend buying either the first batch P series or the last batch 116520 from 7/2015- end of production in 2016. The P series white dial version have dials that will turn into a creamy hue and these dials are referred to as “Panna” dial. These “Panna” 116520 can fetch very high prices in auctions. The last batch of the 116520 features polished center parts on the buckle and these were produced for only one year which makes them more collectible.

If you are not a fan of the Daytona, the “Hulk” 116610lv is a good piece as well. As green is the signature colour of Rolex, anything with a green dial can retain their value very well. The “Hulk” features a green sunburst dial and a green ceramic bezel and hence the nickname. It is a very sharp watch to wear and a good investment piece as it has been discontinued already. You can find any Rolex watches on Chrono24 here.

Seiko, something for everyone

Not a fan of Rolex or having a limited budget? No problem. Seiko always has something for everyone. What I would recommend are the “Tuna Can”and the “Turtle”. The “Tuna” is a very raw hardcore dive watch featuring big and chunky cases made of different materials. There are many sizes and colours to choose from and there are both quartz and mechanical versions. It has a rich history as well. The “Turtle” is also liked by many given its special case shape. It is less chunky than the “Tuna” and more wearable to many. These Seiko sports watches are in a league of their own.

The Seiko Pressage line is for those who may not like big sports watches. I would recommend those with enamel or Urushi dials in the Pressage line. These dress watches are a bargain given their craft on the dials. You can find any Seiko watches on Chrono24 here.

Conclusion

Sitting at home buying you favorite watch has not been easier than now with the help of Chrono24. Any watch can be acquired easily and safely without any hassle. A worry-free shopping experience of luxury watches awaits you there. Check out Chrono24 now!

 

Panerai is a brand most renowned for its heritage and size.  When I first got into watches in 2009, I bought a Pam312 as my first mechanical watch as I was very impressed by its style and size. The military DNA is definitely a major reason for its success. However, with too many unlimited limited editions and identical models being produced, the brand’s value has seriously declined and that is well reflected in the pre-owned market. If you are looking for a Panerai that could keep its value in the future, what will it be?

T-25 models

Tritium dials were last used in around 2008 by Panerai. While they were abandoned by Rolex in around 1997, Panerai continue using tritium till around 2008. A T-25 model is collectible for the lovely patina it can develop on its dial. Limited T-25 Submersible models are good choices as they were limited editions produced in tritium. Most of them have developed yellowish patina which is extremely good-looking. Another good choice is the Pam243 of I or J series that is shown here as it was produced in tritium for only two years. It is also the last stainless steel Submersible to be produced in 44mm.

Pre-V models

Pre-Vendome models are very well-known among Panerai enthusiasts. These watches were produced from around 1993 to around 1997 when the Vendome group purchased Panerai. Their buckles and straps are different from those we see on the Panerai models today. Most of them have developed lovely patina on their dials and that is another reason why they are very sought-after.

Simplicity

Panerai is all about simplicity. When it was produced for the Italian naval commandos, it was a matter of life and death. A Panerai to me is meant to be plain and simple. Modern references such as the 372 and 422 are good choices. The 721 with blued hands and no excessive element on the dial is also nice. While complications are not bad things but Panerai models that are too complicated just simply do not work .

Vintage Rolex has been more than popular for the last few years. Prices have skyrocketed and many watch enthusiasts have joined the market. While most of us hope to buy nice pieces at reasonable prices, more of us end up having bought something that is not easy to sell when we need that sum of money back. The formula for buying vintage Rolex is about rarity, quality and enough preparation.

Period Correctness

There are different dials for each reference of vintage Rolex. For each production period, a certain type of dial was used on them. Therefore, a watch is only correct if the dial of it matches the serial number and the year. One thing that hurts the value of a watch the most is when the dial does not match the serial number of it. Other than the dial, the insert, the bracelet, the clasp, the case back and sometimes the bezel have to be period correct so that the watch/s value is least affected. Before buying, do your homework to avoid mistakes.

The dial

A relumed or restored dial can hurt the value of a watch very much. Therefore, when you inspect a watch, do remember to check if the lume has been redone. Also, do check if the fonts of the printings are original and whether the paint of the dial (the matte part) has been redone. This can be seen if the printings look faded. On a gilt dial, make sure that the gilt printings are a slight step lower than the lacquer. Make sure that you check the lume plots with UV light and a loupe. The edge of the dial is also important. It is best if the edge is clean and the minute markers should not be broken.

The hands

Relumed hands are accepted by some collectors as long as the reluming job is done well. However, relumed hands can be more easily spotted as they may have a different pattern and texture than the markers’ lume plots. Hands are not very expensive to buy so they do not hurt the watch’s value a lot.

The case

While buying any vintage Rolex, make sure you look for those with cases that are not over-polished. The original bevels should still be seen and the lugs should be fat and even. The crown guards should look strong as well and the serial and reference numbers should be clearly seen. Do not go for those with serials 4.2-4.9 as they are service cases. Recut or reworked cases are not recommended. Strong cases are not common so finding one is always a good thing as cases are ,unlike dials, mostly worn after so many years. What is also important is the fonts of the serial and reference number. You need to check carefully if they match the original fonts of Rolex and see if those numbers are reworked.

The insert, bracelet and clasp

Vintage Rolex inserts are getting more expensive now so getting a correct one when buying the watch can save you some money. Check what type of font should be on the insert of your watch and make sure the back color of the insert is correct. A correct bracelet is also important but it does not hurt the value of a watch too much as buying one is not very expensive. Always do look for a bracelet with the matching clasp with correct clasp code that matches the year of the watch.

Knowing what the original ones look like

It is the most important thing in buying vintage Rolex. You should have a good idea of how the original ones look like in order to rate what you are about to view or buy. This can give you a clear idea of what the case, hands, and dial should look like and help you decide how polished a watch is.

When it comes to chronographs, one may easily think of the Rolex Daytona, the Omega Speedmaster, or the Zenith El Primero chronograph. Now, let’s move one level up. The holy trinity, AP, Vacheron, and Patek also have some finely made models with well-decorated movements and meticulously made cases and dials. But the Lange Datograph has long been regarded as the king in this field. It was also a wake-up watch for PP when it was first released. However, is the 1815 Chronograph another good choice for you?

The major difference between the Datograph and the 1815 Chrono is that the 1815 is a pure chronograph while the Datograph has an additional big date window and the current Datograph Up/Down has a power reserve function. The big date window is a signature of the brand as it also appears on other model such as the Lange 1. The big date does add practicality to the watch while the dial layout on the Datograph remains very comfortable to the eye as the date window forms a perfect triangle with the two sub dials. Perfect German geometry. On the 1815 Chrono, the Breguet numerals make the dial look way more classic and they give the dial a vintage hue while the dial of the Datograph looks more modern.

 

The two watches’ movements are very similar with the Datograph one having the power reserve and the big date function. Both movements have insane movemet architecture. The double assembly of each movement of Lange is also something no other brands can match.  The use of German silver without any treatment makes it more difficult with assembly and finishing. The golden hue of the movement plates after they have been oxidized is amazing to behold. The materials used are also top-notch as solid gold chatons and blued steel screws are used. The balance cocks are hand-engraved and each is different.

When it comes to size, the 1815 has a 39.5mm case size while the current Datograph has a 41mm case size. The old Datograph was sized at 39mm without the power reserve function. Some say the old Datograph looks more classic at that size and without the power reserve indicator.

The 1815 Chronograph is a good choice for anyone who looks for a pure chronograph. It is a flyback chronograph with a lot of class. The first generation 1815 chronograph with a reverse panda dial is the best with its champagne sub dials contrasting with the black dial. These dials, just like all Lange dials, are made of solid silver.

However, if you want a chronograph with some modern touches, the Datograph is the way to go. The big date window is sharp and easy to read while the power reserve indicator reminds you when to wind the watch. The bigger size also suits modern wrists.

All in all, if I have to choose between the two, the first generation 1815 Chronograph with a reverse panda dial is my choice. What about you?

The AP Royal Oak has long been a classic on the wrist. Over the years, there have been different sizes of the watch on the market. To cater to modern wrist sizes, the watch has become bigger and bigger and the current version is now 41mm big. While it is nothing wrong to follow the trend, I do think the 39mm version is the best size for a Royal Oak.

This 15300or here is a watch from year 2005. The first owner is an English gentleman who owned a law firm before he retired.  The watch features a 39mm rose gold case on a brown alligator strap with a deployant buckle. The movement is the famous AP Caliber 3120 which is referred to by many as “one of the greatest automatic movements”. The finishing is of the highest end of course and the rotor is also something to behold. The dial features AP’s signature petit tapisserie patterns which takes hours to finish.

 

 

Having worn this watch for a few months now, I feel that 39mm is really the perfect size for an Royal Oak. The case of a Royal Oak is actually bigger than what the official size tells you as the size only measures from edges of the bezel, excluding the other part of the case. When the watch is on the wrist, it is not at all like any 39mm watch as it has so many sharp edges reflecting light like nothing else. As a dressy sports watch, the size is just about right. The 41mm version is surely more sporty but it seems to have less sophistication in it. It is also more showy and less understated to me while some wrists will also find it too big due to the Royal Oak case’s design. Also, the big 3D AP logo on the 15300 is way sharper than the way smaller logo on the 15400or. The lack of the hour index at 3 o’ clock also avoids overcrowding there with the date window. The date wheel on the 15300 is also more readable with black printing against a white background while the 15400 date wheel has white printing against a black background.

 

On a brown leather strap the 15300or is good for any occasion. While the bracelet version is way more shiny, it is more of a Rolex style, which is not very appropriate for a Royal Oak which is supposed to be way more classy.  But would the strap decrease the watch’s sportiness? Not at all. Due to the octagon case design and the sharp edges all over the watch, with casual wear, it is always a star on one’s wrist and the case stands out even more on a leather strap due to the color and material contrast.

 

Overall speaking, the 15300or is a perfect watch to match any casual or dressy wear. Being a rose gold watch, it is both understated and classy due to its not having a rose gold bracelet. The finishing of both the case and the movement is absolutely top-notch. A full set 15300or is now around 170,000 – 190,000 HKD now depending on its condition.

 

This watch here is for sale at 180,000HKD full set. Please contact me if interested.

The ref 1680/8 Rolex gold Submariner was produced from around 1969-1978. It was released as a sporty elegant watch and it was the first gold Submariner ref in Rolex history. Today, it has become one of the most collectible vintage Rolex ref.

Compared to its steel counterpart, the 1680 steel, the 1680/8 was made in much fewer quantities as not many people in those days could afford a solid gold watch. While a steel 1680 can be more easily found to be in good condition, a gold 1680 in good condition could be a rather rare find as gold tends to age easier than steel given the fact that it is much softer.

Early 1680/8 came with a meters first dial which is very collectible nowadays. It is also said that the early version could be paired with inserts of white fonts, just like those on the steel 1680. On later ones, the 1680/8 came with a 600ft first dial.

The insert should be the MK 3 fat font insert. Earlier inserts have no gold ring surround the pearl while later inserts have a gold ring surrounding the pearl and the gold ring should be right within the triangle. The crown of the 1680/8 should be a 700 triplock crown without the three dots while those before 1972 used a twinlock crown. Also, there should not be any external O ring.

The bracelet of the 1680/8 should be the 9290/8 and there is no bracelet code on the clasp and there is no marking on the end links. One must be aware that those stamped with 92908 on the clasp are later replacement bracelets. The removable links on the bracelet are push pin type instead of using screws.

The 1680 gold is absolutely a very collectible piece. An example in good condition should have a fat case, a correct insert, a clean dial and a correct bracelet.  A 1680/8 can fetch around 320,000-350,000 hkd depending on its condition. When comparing to the later 16808 with sapphire crystal and also a nipple dial, the 1680/8 displays a more vintage style with its top hat plexi crystal. Also, the dial markings are smaller on the 1680/8 and its 6 o’ clock and 12 o’ clock hour markers are longer making the dial visually smaller. A good 1680/8 dial must also have sharp gold printings on the fonts and minute markers. It is in conclusion a good gold watch for people of any age as it is less showy than modern gold Rolex. it is more a sign of taste.

The 11652x Daytona generation came in 2000 with a so called “old buckle” or “short buckle”. In around 2007-2008, the M series, came the change from the “short buckle” to the “long buckle”. Some prefer the “short buckle” for its aesthetics and uniqueness while some prefer the new for its functionality.

The “short buckle” is unique as it has more curves than the new one. It was also used only by the Daytona from 2000-2008. It is shorter and the clasp is smaller. Operating it may not be as easy as the “long buckle”, but it is absolutely more attractive in terms of aesthetics. It looks weaker than the “long buckle” while having a shape that displays more curves.

The “long buckle”, on the other hand, is way more substantial. It is more hefty and substantial. Operating it is also easier as it is longer and the clasp is bigger. However, it is less unique as the GMT Master II also uses the same buckle. The shape of it contains less curves and looks stronger.

I personally prefer the “short buckle” as the shape of it is way more unique. Although it may not be as good as the “long buckle’ while operating, it fits the image of the Daytona more as a sporty elegant watch.

 

The Zenith Daytona 16520 and 16528 have been quite hot on the market lately. While the early versions, such as the floating dial, porcelain dial and inverted 6 dial, are quite pricey now, the later versions are still worth getting as prices are more affordable.

The 16528 U series is a good choice as it is the last year Rolex produced its dials with tritium. Some late U series have luminova dials while early ones still have tritium dials. The 16528 is special as the three sub dials are more yellowish than its steel counterpart 16520. Patrizzi dials of 16520 with dark yellow or brown sub dials are very sort after. The sub dials on the 16528 give you a similar hue while the model carries a rather affordable price tag.

The correct tritium dial of the U 16528 should not have inverted 6 on the sub dial at 6 o clock and it should not have rounded numbers. Minute markings should be fat but not thin. It should have a MK5 bezel on which the letters of HOURS are closely spaced. (https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/different-bezels-for-automatic-daytonas-t17026.html)

The correct bracelet of the 16528 should be the 78668 with solid end link. The end link code should be stamped inside the end link but not outside.

As steel watches are getting more and more expensive, the 16528 is actually getting more and more collectible given its relatively good prices compared to its steel counterpart.

 

2020 has just come. 2019 was a fruitful year for me as I had the chances to acquire several lovely timepieces.

Here are some of the best watches I got in 2019: