Month: March 2020

The ref 1680/8 Rolex gold Submariner was produced from around 1969-1978. It was released as a sporty elegant watch and it was the first gold Submariner ref in Rolex history. Today, it has become one of the most collectible vintage Rolex ref.

Compared to its steel counterpart, the 1680 steel, the 1680/8 was made in much fewer quantities as not many people in those days could afford a solid gold watch. While a steel 1680 can be more easily found to be in good condition, a gold 1680 in good condition could be a rather rare find as gold tends to age easier than steel given the fact that it is much softer.

Early 1680/8 came with a meters first dial which is very collectible nowadays. It is also said that the early version could be paired with inserts of white fonts, just like those on the steel 1680. On later ones, the 1680/8 came with a 600ft first dial.

The insert should be the MK 3 fat font insert. Earlier inserts have no gold ring surround the pearl while later inserts have a gold ring surrounding the pearl and the gold ring should be right within the triangle. The crown of the 1680/8 should be a 700 triplock crown without the three dots while those before 1972 used a twinlock crown. Also, there should not be any external O ring.

The bracelet of the 1680/8 should be the 9290/8 and there is no bracelet code on the clasp and there is no marking on the end links. One must be aware that those stamped with 92908 on the clasp are later replacement bracelets. The removable links on the bracelet are push pin type instead of using screws.

The 1680 gold is absolutely a very collectible piece. An example in good condition should have a fat case, a correct insert, a clean dial and a correct bracelet.  A 1680/8 can fetch around 320,000-350,000 hkd depending on its condition. When comparing to the later 16808 with sapphire crystal and also a nipple dial, the 1680/8 displays a more vintage style with its top hat plexi crystal. Also, the dial markings are smaller on the 1680/8 and its 6 o’ clock and 12 o’ clock hour markers are longer making the dial visually smaller. A good 1680/8 dial must also have sharp gold printings on the fonts and minute markers. It is in conclusion a good gold watch for people of any age as it is less showy than modern gold Rolex. it is more a sign of taste.

The 11652x Daytona generation came in 2000 with a so called “old buckle” or “short buckle”. In around 2007-2008, the M series, came the change from the “short buckle” to the “long buckle”. Some prefer the “short buckle” for its aesthetics and uniqueness while some prefer the new for its functionality.

The “short buckle” is unique as it has more curves than the new one. It was also used only by the Daytona from 2000-2008. It is shorter and the clasp is smaller. Operating it may not be as easy as the “long buckle”, but it is absolutely more attractive in terms of aesthetics. It looks weaker than the “long buckle” while having a shape that displays more curves.

The “long buckle”, on the other hand, is way more substantial. It is more hefty and substantial. Operating it is also easier as it is longer and the clasp is bigger. However, it is less unique as the GMT Master II also uses the same buckle. The shape of it contains less curves and looks stronger.

I personally prefer the “short buckle” as the shape of it is way more unique. Although it may not be as good as the “long buckle’ while operating, it fits the image of the Daytona more as a sporty elegant watch.