Patek Philippe 5035 – The first annual calendar from Patek

Produced from 1996-2005, the 5035 was the first PP annual calendar watch. Patek decided to produce this model as a simplified version of the perpetual calendar, which many found too complicated to operate, and sometimes obsolete. The 5035 was replaced in 2005 by the 5146, which is still in production today.

At 37mm, the 5035 features the date, month and date display. At 6 o’ clock, there is a 24 hour display. This combination is not found in any annual calendar watch offered by Patek anymore.

The 5035 was produced in rose gold, white gold, yellow gold and platinum. The movement inside is PP’s 315s QA24h movement with a solid gold rotor. The finishing is superb and the winding efficiency is great due to the weight of the solid gold rotor.

Its successor 5146 features sub-dials for day, month and moon-phase and an aperture for the date. There is also a power reserve at 12 o’ clock. The 5146 is 39mm which is 2mm bigger than the 5035. It also has Arabic numerals instead of the Roman numerals on the 5035.

Although the 5146 displays more information on its dial, it is considered by some to be too busy. Not only does the 5035 have the most discrete size of 37mm, it also has the kind of sheer functionality displaying only the most essential information on the dial. It is simple and clean.

Investment value : The 5035’s price ranges from HKD140,000 to 170,000 depending on condition. Although it was produced for almost ten years, it is still a collectible piece as it was Patek’s first annual calendar model. In today’s watch world, if you can still grab a used Patek with complication at this price, it is a bargain. What you get are superb finishing on the dial, case and the movement and very practical functions from the world’s most prestigious watch brand.

Rolex Day Date 40 VS the Daytona ceramic 116500

Rolex Day-Date 40 VS Rolex Daytona 116500 ceramic   
With the new Rolex 116500ln Daytona Ceramic out, the attention of us is back to the Daytona. However, let’s not forget the brand’s most iconic model, the Day-Date. A new olive dial version has been released with rose gold case and bracelet. It is also available in white gold.
Some of you may have the same struggle – to go for the Day-Date or the Daytona?

1 Price
The Rolex Day-Date 40 is way more expensive than the Daytona as there is no stainless steel version for the DD40. With that said, you will have to pay around 190k -210k for a DD40. With the Daytona, if you opt for the yellow gold, white gold or the rose gold version, you will have to pay around 180k-210k. However, the Daytona can be had in stainless steel which is around 145k right now for the 116500ln.

  1. Practicality

The Rolex Day-Date is a way more practical watch than the Daytona. We bet you have to know which day and date it is more than to know the duration of your drive, given that most of us are not professional race car drivers? The Rolex DD40 has the date and day display which makes everyday life way more convenient than wearing the Daytona. Moreover, let’s not forget the DD40’s 72 hours of power reserve That means you do not have to wind your watch as much as the Daytona.
 

  1. Rarity

How often do you see people wearing the Daytona on the street? Very, right? But you do not see a lot of DD40. So, why wear the same watch that others are wearing? Stand out by wearing the DD40 is a good choice to show your elegance and special taste.

  1. The bracelet.

The Daytona has a Oyster bracelet which features the Easylink extension system. Most of Rolex’s sports watches have Oyster bracelet with them. Again, it might be too common. The DD40 has a President bracelet which reflects light way better than an Oyster band. The polished center links shine like nothing else. It is more comfortable as the links are smaller, they can adjust to the shape of your wrist better

Updates on Rolex prices

The prices of Rolex sports models have been rising for the last couple of months.
A 116500ln white dial cost around HKD130,000 in April. Now a used one is over HKD135,000 and a bnib 116500ln white is now around HKD150,000. Although the price is so high, there is still very limited stock. It is hard to estimate when the price of this Daytona will go down as it has always been Rolex’s most signature sports watch.
The 116610lv Hulk is now selling HKD95,000 in shops. Grey dealers are selling HKD88,000 to HKD92,000 now. Rumor has it that this model will be discontinued next year in 2018 when it will have been produced for 8 years. A used Hulk is now over HKD72,000. The list price of this watch is HKD68,100.
The 116710blnr Batman is now selling over HKD75,000 now. A used Batman is now selling at around HKD68,000 to 72,000. This is another very highly sought-after Rolex model because of its bi-colour ceramic bezel.
The other hot model is the 16610lv 50th anniversary Submariner. A “Flat 4” LV is now selling at over HKD110,000. A normal 16610lv is now selling at over HKD80,000 in shops while grey dealers are selling at around HKD76,000 to 79,000.

To Daytona or not to Daytona —That is the question

The Rolex Daytona has been in vogue for over 2 decades, or even more for some earlier references. For those who have doubts whether to get the Daytona or not, we give you our Daytonas of choice.

  1. Rolex Daytona 6263 – The “Paul Newman” Daytona with exotic dial

The legendary 6263 is on our list, and it always will and should on anyone’s list of favorite Daytonas. A Rolex 6263 Daytona with exotic dial is referred to as “the Paul Newman Daytona” as movie star Paul Newman used to wear it a lot when racing, and not racing. At 37mm, the 6263 has a very exquisite dial layout. It looks classic by any standard. The sub-dials are well placed with appropriate space and balance in between. The numerals on the sub-dials are exquisitely done. The chapter ring is another feature of an “exotic” dial. It matches the tachymeter on the bezel very well.

Other than that, the 6263 has red “Daytona” letters on the dial and features screw-down chronograph pushers. It is a must-have for any Daytona enthusiast and the prices at auctions have proved that.

  1. Rolex 116520 Daytona

The first automatic chronograph with an in-house Rolex movement – is it enough?

The 116520 has been in production since 2000 when it replaced the 16520 which had a modified Zenith movement. The 116520 is now out of production and it is replaced by the new ceramic Daytona 116500ln. However, it was a cult success by any means. The price of the 116520 had always been higher than the retail price. It was such a symbol of status that no other watches could, or can compare.

  1. Rolex 116500ln Daytona Ceramic

Rolex is good at solving problems. While the bezel of the 116520 was said to attract scratches easily, they have now put a ceramic bezel on the newest Daytona ref 116500ln. The new 116500ln is a stunner. The white dial version features the “panda” style dial similar to the legendary 6263. The best thing is that it has a ceramic bezel that is not easily scratched. Other details? The movement’s accuracy is now +2/-2 per day! As the successor of the 116520, it is going to be another cult success. Do get yours before it gets hard to find one.

Here are the 5 reasons why you should get the new Rolex Daytona Ceramic 116500ln

The new Rolex Daytona 116500ln was released at  Baselworld 2016. We know that it will be a crazy hit for any watch enthusiast. However, if you are still thinking about whether to save up for the watch, here are 5 reasons why you actually should.

  1. It is an icon.

For years, the Rolex Daytona has been one of the most celebrated watches in the world. In the world of Rolex, it represents the most expensive model of Rolex’s stainless steel watches (the Yacht Master ii excluded). If you want to upgrade from your world of Submariners and GMTs, it is time to get a Daytona.

  1. The new ceramic bezel

The 116500ln features a black ceramic bezel. As we all know, a ceramic bezel is scratch-proof. On the 116520 Daytona which features a polished stainless steel bezel, one of the big problems is that the bezel attracts a lot of scratches. We can often see second-hand 116520 which are full of scratches on the bezel, the most obviously seen part of the watch. With that said, it is easier for you to keep your watch as mint as possible with the new 116500ln.

  1. The only “complicated” stainless steel Rolex

The Rolex Daytona is the only stainless steel Rolex with a complication (GMT function excluded). It has been Rolex’s only chronograph for years. Although you may not fully utilize the chronograph function, it might be time for you to taste something different from your three-hand time-only watch.

  1. Increased accuracy

As Rolex is now imposing new standards other than the COSC standards they have been observing, Rolex watches are now +2/-2 per day according to their new independent certification.

  1. “Panda” style

If you have been in the watch world for long enough, or not so long, you may have noticed how expensive a “Paul Newman” Daytona 6263 is, especially those that feature a “Panda” dial. The new 116500ln white dial version features something similar. The three black sub-dial rings sit on the while dial which gives you a close-to-Paul-Newman experience.

As to prices, the 116500ln is on a steady rise. It was HKD129,000 when I bought one in April. Now, it is at least HKD135,000. Some even sell for over HKD140,000. For the 116520, the black dial version is around HKD95,000 to 105,000 depending on its condition and the year of production. An NOS 116520 can cost you as much as HKD130,000.

(All images are from Google and the copyright belongs to the owners of these images)

What to buy if you are entering the world of Rolex with a limited budget?

Rolex at entry level – the new Air-king, the Milgauss and the Explorer

 
Rolex updated its Air-King in 2016. The price of the watch is around 47k HKD. At this price point, it is definitely an entry-level Rolex. So, is it an able contender against the Explorer and the Milgauss, which have always been very iconic?

Let’s look at what the new Air-King has to offer. At first glance, I almost could not believe it is a watch produced by Rolex. Its design is unlike any other Rolex which are mostly conservatively designed. The new 116900 Air-King is a bold watch. At 40mm, the watch has a polished bezel and a dial full of fun. Some may argue that the dial is too busy. However, it is also the dial that sticks to the aviation theme. It mixes the hour markers 3,6 and 9 with the minute markers. It does look like an Explorer I 214270 with Arabic minute markers. But is this what Rolex has to offer? A modified Explorer I?

No. The new Air-King has a fun dial as I mentioned. Other than the mixture of hour and minute markers, the dial features a yellow Rolex crown, green “Rolex” letters and a green second hand. Green is the color of Rolex and this watch has a theme of green. The font of the letters Air-King is full of style as well. The watch has soft-iron case inside which makes the new Air-King anti-magnetic and truly adheres to the aviation theme.

This is quite a comprehensive package for an entry-level Rolex, isn’t it? But how does it compare with the Milgauss and the Explorer I?

First, let’s talk about the Explorer I. At a slightly higher price, you can get a 39mm watch which has very rich history. The dial of the Explorer I is much cleaner and simpler. It is also more classic, if that is the word. However, it lacks the funky elements that exist on the Air-King dial. It has the shock absorber that the new Air-King does not have. However, it is not anti-magnetic like the new Air-King.

How about the 116400GV Milgauss? The Milgauss is famous for its green sapphire crystal and its anti-magnetic capability. It is a very accurate watch. The dial of the Milgauss is not as busy as the new Air-King but it is colorful enough. It has an all polished case and polished center links on the bracelet. On the wrist, the Milgauss looks very sharp and elegant. The shades of green on the sapphire crystal keep bringing you surprises under different lighting.

If you happen to dislike the GV Milgauss, you can pick the white dial version which blends orange with white and looks stunning in the metal.

The price? It is slightly higher than the new Air-King. But I do think that the design elements of the Milgauss seem better than that of the Air-King and that makes the Milgauss my choice among the three contenders here
 
What is your choice?

A comparison of dive watches – Rolex VS AP VS Hublot VS Panerai

Divers are always meant to dive. So are these.


Which watch can be more associated to diving than the Rolex Submariner? The Rolex Deepsea. With its capacity to withstand water pressure at 3900m, it is a beast you can rely on when you someday for some reason have to dive into that depth to look for your lost wedding ring. This D-Blue special edition is even better. This watch is to commemorate James Cameron’s dive in his green Deepsea Challenge submarine to the Mariana Trench. It features a D-Blue dial, which is a gradient dial that goes from blue to black to manifest the change of sea water color during a dive.

The watch is water resistant up to 3900m and it has a ceramic bezel with numerals and graduations coated in platinum. Inside beating is a Rolex 3135 movement, Rolex’s most famous workhorse. The case back is made of Grade 5 titanium. At 44mm, this could well be the ultimate dive watch in the world.

But what if the Deep Sea D-Blue is not elegant enough? Try the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver at 42mm. Manufactured by one of the most prestigious watchmaking houses, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver, in both black dial and white dial, in every way demonstrates power, elegance and reliability.

The watch features the brand’s signature octagon bezel with polished edges and polished white gold screws each of which is aligned according to their positions. The screws are parallel to each of their bezel edge. It demonstrates very strict craftsmanship. The inner bezel of the watch is controlled by a crown at 10 o’ clock and it is water resistant to 300m. With its display back, you can see AP’s signature 22k gold engraved rotor and the beautifully finished cal.3210 movement.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a bit different from the AP Diver. Very different actually. Introduced even before the Rolex Submariner, the Fifty Fathoms has a case that is way different from any dive watch. It does not look rugged. Instead, it looks more elegant than any of its counterpart. Thanks to the bezel which is made in sapphire, it is one of the most robust bezel on a dive watch. Not only that, the sapphire bezel adds a lot of shine to the watch as well.

Another distinct feature on the bezel is that every numeral and graduation has Superluminova applied. That definitely makes your dive much safer. At 45mm, this watch is very wearable. Beating inside is a Blancpain in-house Cal 1315 movement that has 120 hours of power reserve.

Thinking 300m is not good enough? What about ten times more? The Hublot King Power Oceangraphic is such beast. It will still work at 4000m depth, just 100m more than the Rolex Deep Sea.

At 48mm, the case is huge and thick. However, as it is made of titanium, it wears on your wrist very much like a 300m diver. According to some additional tests, this watch can go as deep as 5000m.

The case of this watch absolutely looks very rugged. The screws on the bezel may remind you of the AP Diver, although they are not quite the same breed.

Something in the middle,simple and without so much depth rating can be a good daily beater and we have the Panerai 389 Submersible here with us. Panerai has been renowned for making military dive watches for the Italian navy in the Second World War. Their watches are big and bold in a fashionable way. The Submersible series is their best dive watch line.

The Pam389 is water resistant to 1000m and it has a very beautiful sandblasted ceramic bezel. The bezel keeps you from scratches and makes it more care-free when you dive with the watch. The bezel will remind you of the windows of ships that are screwed to the body of the ship. This watch has a date and small seconds display. More to that, the Pam 389 is also anti-magnetic, which is not very commonly seen on a diver. The watch has a three-day power reserve with its in-house P9000 movement. The whole watch is in titanium, which makes diving with it a joy.
 

A battle of chronographs I – the Rolex Daytona VS

A battle of chronographs I – the Rolex Daytona VS
 
The Rolex Daytona has been offering us an unparalleled chronograph. No matter in stainless steel or precious metals, the Daytona has always been an iconic watch that has enjoyed cult success. If you have already owned one or even several Daytonas, what other chronographs can you get?

  1. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph

Looking for something more high-end than the Daytona? The Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph may well be your choice. Offered in very vivid colors, the new 2016 member of the Royal Oak family gives you a 42mm AP chronograph with ceramic pushers and a display case back from which you can see a very well-decorated movement with a 22k gold rotor.
The watch is worn on a rubber strap with matching colors and has a pin buckle. The inner bezel is uni-directional and it can be controlled by the crown at 10 o’ clock.

  1. Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915

You may have never considered buying a Breitling as it is a brand characterized by oversized muscle watches and probably John Travolta. However, the Transocean 1915 Chronograph is not to be overlooked. It features a vintage-inspired dial with beige Arabic numerals. The best thing of this watch is the hand-wound movement. You will not see any hand-wound chronograph with a display case back at this price point, left alone the fact that it is a double column-wheel movement which is well-finished with Geneve stripes. The watch comes with a mesh bracelet which responds very well to the vintage theme.

By the way, it is a mono-pusher chronograph. You only use one pusher to start, stop and reset the chronograph. The crystal of the watch is domed to match the vintage style.

  1. The Omega Speedmaster CK2998 Chronograph Limited Edition

It is one of the sweetest offerings for 2016. The Omega Speedmaster CK2998 has a 39.5 case, a blue ceramic bezel with a white super-luminova tachymeter scale. It has a hand-wound Caliber 1861 movement with 48 hours of power reserve. It is the same movement that was used in the original Moonwatch. One more interesting feature that differs this watch from other Moonwatch references is the use of the lollipop second hand. The watch is worn on a very nice blue alligator strap which matches the blue sub-dials.
What more can you ask for? It retails at only around 40k HKD.