Author: jasonlo213

When it comes to Speedmaster, many will look at the 42mm Moon Watch first. The MK40 gained popularity when Hodinkee collaborated with Omega and produced a Hodinkee 10th anniversary edition watch inspired by the MK40. The MK40 has a special dial and many interesting features that is a lot to offer for a watch under 30k hkd.

The Speedmaster Reduced is slightly smaller at around 38mm rather than 42mm. For some wrists, this could be slightly too small but for most wrists this size is just perfect. There are a few dial variations for the MK40 but the variation featured here is the most attractive among them. With a black Arabic dial, the tritium numerals, if aged beautifully, add a lot of character and color to the dial.

The most interesting thing of the MK40 is that it offers a lot of functions for a watch at this price. It is a chronograph while it also offers Day/Month display windows and a hand that indicates the date around the outer dial. The pusher at ten o’ clock is for adjusting the day while the months is adjusted by the date indicating hand. The best thing about the date ring is that it gives you a very clear sense how many days remain in a particular month. The small seconds are displayed on the dial at 9 o’ clock which is also a 24 hour indicator, a very practical function that shows you whether it is the morning or the night when you adjust the watch.

 

The richness of colors is one of the most impressive features of this watch. The chrono hands are red while half of the small seconds dial is blue. With beautifully aged pumpkin numerals, the mix of colors is amazing. At under 30k hkd, this is definitely one of the best choices on the market. The piece featured here has pumpkin tritium numerals which is key to the aesthetics of this watch to me. As tritium is no longer used in watch dials, these ones with beautifully aged numerals will become more collectible in the future.

 

Watch prices have been dropping recently due to many factors. Collectors may find this a good opportunity to find quality pieces at reasonable prices while investors may have to rethink when and how they should reenter the market. While the more modern Daytonas such as the 116500 are badly hit, the Zenith 16520 seems to be doing way better due to its collectability.

The 16520 Zenith Daytona was released in 1988 and production stopped in 2000 when it was replaced by 116520. As the first automatic Daytona, the 16520 features a 4030 Zenith movement, which was then replaced by in-house Rolex movement in the 116520 in 2000. The floating porcelain dial, four-liner dial, Patrizzi dial, inverted 6 dial, the A series and the P series are some of the popular dial variations and series that are collectible.

The A series, among them, is one of the more rare but affordable series of the 16520 as it was produced in only 1999-2000 while prices are still not sky high. The A series is the only series (other than the very few P series) that has solid end links. Other than that, it features a luminova dial that started in lower U series 16520 till the end of the 16520 production in 2000.

With these unique features, the 16520 Zenith Daytona has more or less survived better in the recent price drop. Given its more collectible status, one that is in good condition is not as easy to be found as the 116520 and the in-production 116500 since the 16520 was discontinued 22 years ago.  Therefore, price fluctuations may not affect this reference as much as the newer 116520 and the in-production ceramic 116500.

But what should you look for in a 16520 A series? First of all, an unpolished case. The brushed area, the lug chamfers, thickness, and the crown guards will tell you if the watch has been polished. The bezel will also be a sign. The dial has to be 100% clean and the bracelet is 78390 and the endlink is 803b solid endlink.

The watch featured here is an unpolished 16520 A series in new old stock condition. It comes with a super full set. Any inquiries are welcome.

 

 

 

Audemars Piguet is very strong this year celebrating the 50th anniversary of its flagship model the Royal Oak. Since early 2021, the prices of Royal Oaks and Royal Oak Offshores have been climbing up rapidly. Next year will be the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore. We can expect that AP will keep gaining momentum in 2022 and 2023. What are some of the models you should not miss if you want to board the AP train?

The 26331st blue dial

At 41mm, this discontinued 26331st blue dial is a very collectible watch. Most blue dial Royal Oaks are boutique editions and this is no exception. They are only available at AP boutiques. In today’s watch world, it is getting increasingly difficult to be assigned watches from boutiques. Prices of all the boutique editions are going up faster than other colorways. In terms of aesthetics, the blue dial of this 26331st makes it a versatile watch. It is both sporty and classic and best fit gentlemen who needs a watch that can pair with both casual and formal wear.

The 15202or Jumbo

In rose gold, the 15202or Jumbo is a all-time classic. While the steel version is more casual, this rose gold Jumbo is a more flamboyant statement piece. The 50th anniversary Jumbo 16202 has just replaced the 15202 and the 16202 is going for almost 4mil HKD as of today. At almost 2mil HKD, the 15202or is indeed a bargain for now. This discontinued Jumbo will certainly go up in value rapidly in the future given the momentum AP has been gaining due to the anniversaries of both the RO and the ROO.

 

The 5402st Jumbo A series

Last but not least, the 5402st Jumbo is the Jumbo of all Jumbos. It is the first ever Jumbo released by AP in the 1970s. The A series is the first batch released and it is believed only around 2000 A series exist. You can imagine how collectible it is and it will be. These 5402st A series are fetching around 1.5 to 1.8mil HKD now and value will probably go up very sharply after splendid auction results this year. It is very likely the only AP you need if you are to have only one AP in your life.

2021 was a crazy year for watches. Prices I mean. Rebounding from the plunge in 2020 during the start of the pandemic, prices in 2021 were skyrocketing as demand for luxury watches surged. What is the market going to be like in 2022?

 

Rolex prices had a big surge during late 2021. Modern Daytonas and GMTs were the winners. The 116500ln rose to around 380k hkd brand new while other precious metal versions also rose to new highs. Will this continue in 2022? I think it is very likely. Due to the lack of supply and the increase of demand everywhere, there is no reason for a big drop of prices. Buying power is strong as some young buyers enter the market after cashing out from crypto currency which rose a lot in 2021. Although it is possible to have some price corrections for overheated models, a big drop is nearly impossible. Rolex has long been tough in history through many ups and downs. During many economic downturns and worldwide crisis, Rolex have maintained its value very well. Among them, the Daytona is always the best choice for investment. Neo vintage watches are also attracting attention. Those in good condition are also very good choices to invest your money in. While modern Rolex and neo vintage Rolex are doing well, vintage Rolex market has been soft for the last year mainly because flights have been suspended and buyers cannot travel to view the watches themselves which is very important. It is expected that if flights continue to be suspended, the vintage Rolex market will not be very alive in 2022.

 

Another king of watches Patek Philippe also did very well in 2021. With the olive Nautilus 5711 and the Tiffany Blue 5711, the brand is marketing itself differently from its traditional way. Worn by NBA stars, rappers and soccer stars, the classic traditional image of PP is overridden by its young, trendy new look. In 2022, the craze for Nautilus and Aquanaut will likely continue. Undervalued dress watches may not be craved by new young buyers while seasoned collectors may find them attractive. Vintage Nautilus and Aquanaut are also doing well. Smaller size ones like the 3800 and 5060 are gaining popularity. They are good investment choices since they are still undervalued. With the Gerald Genta auction coming up soon, the Nautilus will likely see new highs in prices.

 

2022 is the 50^th anniversary for AP Royal Oak. The Jumbo 15202 will be discontinued and a new Jumbo is expected to come. It is for sure that Royal Oak prices will skyrocket this year. Again, with the GG auction coming soon, the RO will be gaining a lot of popularity. Another factor for the limited supply of AP watches is the withdrawal of dealership from authorised dealers. AP will deal watches themselves instead of letting Ads to handle that. The tightening supply of watches will certainly impact the prices very much. Smaller ROs like the 4100 could be good investment choices since they are still undervalued. Other than that, Royal Oak Offshores limited editions are also good for investment if prices are not high. However, since there are too many versions for the ROO, one must remain cautious while investing.

 

Many expect 2022 will be a year for Vacheron Constantin Overseas to rise. This is mainly because Overseas are still not as expensive as Royal Oaks and Nautilus. The blue Overseas have been getting hotter and hotter since early 2021 and prices are going up now day by day. Generation 1 and generation 2 Overseas are still very much undervalued and they are good investment choices in 2022. The blue Fifty Six is also a nice choice. As part of the holy trinity in haute horology, VC is likely to make a comeback in 2022.

 

What about independent brands? FP Journe had a strong year in 2021 with auction results being dazzling. This is likely to continue in 2022 as more young collectors are investing in The next FPJ in 2022 could likely be MB&F.. Similar to FPJ, MB&F have been around for some years making unique timepieces. Many expect it to have a booming year in 2022 due to its limited production numbers and impeccable quality and design.

What is Omega to you? 007? Moon landing?

The Speedmaster is definitely synonymous to Omega. Among the many Speedmasters on the market, here are two of them which are very affordable but underrated on today’s market.

The Speedmaster 125 was released in 1973 to celebrate the brand’s founding in 1848. It was the first chronograph to receive an official chronometer certification. The structure of the watch was not often seen at the time it was released. It has a modular design featuring a massive outer case that can be separated from the inner case that holds the movement, dial and hands. The case shape and its mass is still very special in today’s watch world. It is one of the products produced in the 20th century Space Age. The bracelet is also one of a kind as it is very chunky but comfortable. It is made of curved square blocks. The design is both very retro and futuristic and you don’t see such design very often in other watches.

The functions of the timepiece include small seconds, chronograph,date and day/night indicator. I find the day/night indicator very useful when adjusting the time. The watch was made popular in Asia by Japanese star Kimura Takuya when he wore it in one of his popular TV drams. A Speedmaster 125 can be bought at around 20-30k HKD today. What can you buy today with that amount of money?

Another Speedmaster I recommend is the Speedmaster 1957 reissue which is part of Omega’s Trilogy Collection in 2017.

At 38.6mm, this is a loyal reissue of the 1957 Speedmaster Broad Arrow. The dial markers has faux patina which is yellowish and the dial has a matte tropical brownish color which is one of the best parts of this watch. You can see the dial color change from black to dark brown according to different lighting. The crystal is just like the original watch, it is a Hesalite crystal with a tiny Omega logo on it. The bracelet is comfy but loyal to the original bracelet while having a modern touch with a big chunky clasp that allows you to micro adjust the length.

While the original vintage 1957 Speedmaster maybe expensive to obtain, it is not easy to find one in good condition. This reissue fills this gap properly. It can be bought at around 50-60k HKD now. It is certainly a watch with a lot of value for that amount of money.

For buyers:

1. Do your homework.

Always do enough research before buying especially for vintage and neo vintage timepieces. Their values can vary depending on whether they have the correct dials, inserts or bracelets.

 

2. Ask for clear photos and videos

Don’t be impulsive when you see a seemingly beautiful watch. Always ask for photos and videos under different lighting and angles to check clearly whether the piece is up to your standard.

 

3. Ask for reference and check online

Sometimes, the seller’s reputation tells a lot. Of course, it is better to view each piece independently but checking on the seller always helps. You can look for his/her reference online and see whether he/she is reliable to buy from.

 

4. Don’t be too harsh

Being careful is one thing, being harsh is another. If you are buying something online, you cannot expect photos and videos to be as clear as seeing the watch in person under a loupe. Do ask questions when you are in doubt but make sure those questions do not make you look dumb or harsh. The same applies to negotiating on prices.

 

For sellers:

 

1. Be patient

You need to have ready photos and videos to show clearly the condition of the watch. It can always smoothen the deal. Explaining honestly to the client and make full disclosure of the condition of the watch is essential. After all, your client s are not buying a carrot or potato. They need to know everything and every part of the watch clearly.

 

2. Don’t be impatient

Impatient sellers never make deals happen in today’s world where everything can be researched online. Buyers have a lot of choices. Being impatient just makes you look bad and you will be easily searched for your impatient treatment to your clients. One example: I once asked Scott of Hqmilton about the spring bars of a Daytona and he asked me if I understood they were operating at a high level.

 

3. Be friendly

I know you are selling expensive watches but it does not mean you have to be unfriendly. Buyers ask questions to ensure themselves much like when you are buying something for yourself. Attitude is very important when it comes to entertaining your buyers. Having bad attitude only shows how ignorant you are since there are many other people selling more expensive things than watches.

 

4. Don’t be lazy

By lazy I mean not willing to do enough research on the watches you are selling. Sometimes, clients even know better than sellers. It is almost a joke. Surely we all learn something new and it is a journey, but it is better to make sure you know well about the watches you are selling.

 

5. Don’t hide anything

It is unfair for you to hide anything from your clients. What is more is that when what you try to hide is exposed, it does a lot more damage to you as it will be circulated quickly through social media. You are expected to have good knowledge.

It is no secret that online shopping has become very popular now. For luxury watches, Chrono24 is a platform that has gained a lot of popularity in the past ten years. However, for some, it may still be a bit insecure to buy from this platform. So, what does Chrono24 really offer?

Anything new, used or vintage

One of the best things about Chrono24 is that you can almost find anything there. Any model from any brand, either new or used, can be found on Chrono24. Information and prices are very transparent there for you to compare. You can enjoy a good search easily in the watch world for anything from Rolex to Seiko or Patek Philippe to G-shock. Any individuals or dealers can buy and sell on this platform making it one of the best online watch platforms in the world

The “Trusted Checkout”

After you have found something you want, you may wonder : “Is it safe to buy?” Chrono24’s “Trusted Checkout” can make you rest assured. Your payment is actually kept by an escrow account of Chrono24. After you receive the watch from the seller, you will have 7 days to inspect it and only if everything is fine will your money be released to the seller. If anything is wrong, you can contact Chrono24 for a solution.

The mighty “Watch Scanner”

Tiring searches on Google on watches are no longer needed with Chrono24’s “Watch Scanner” feature. With just one photo, you can scan your watch and get all the information including the specs and prices of it.  It is easy and convenient. Just download the Chrono24 app and launch the watch scanner feature to start your journey in the watch world.

What is good to buy?

For investment or personal wear, Rolex has been a very popular choices for a long time especially in the last couple years.  The pandemic has made production numbers drop and prices of Rolex watches have soared a lot. Not many watches are available in boutiques due to low production numbers and it is a safer option to buy them online due to the pandemic. I would recommend the Daytona collection and the Submariner “Hulk”.

The 116500 ceramic Daytona is a very good choice for investment or personal wear. The Daytona has very rich history associated with racing and it has been a very sought-after model for a long time. The 116500 ranges from 230,000hkd to 300,000hkd now depending on the dial colour and condition. The white dial “Panda” is more popular than the black dial version at the moment given its stronger visual contrast and its reminder of vintage Daytona like the 6263 and 6265.

The discontinued 116520 is another good model to buy if you prefer polished steel bezels. The black dial version used to be more popular while the white dial version has caught up in value due to the popularity of the white 116500. I would recommend buying either the first batch P series or the last batch 116520 from 7/2015- end of production in 2016. The P series white dial version have dials that will turn into a creamy hue and these dials are referred to as “Panna” dial. These “Panna” 116520 can fetch very high prices in auctions. The last batch of the 116520 features polished center parts on the buckle and these were produced for only one year which makes them more collectible.

If you are not a fan of the Daytona, the “Hulk” 116610lv is a good piece as well. As green is the signature colour of Rolex, anything with a green dial can retain their value very well. The “Hulk” features a green sunburst dial and a green ceramic bezel and hence the nickname. It is a very sharp watch to wear and a good investment piece as it has been discontinued already. You can find any Rolex watches on Chrono24 here.

Seiko, something for everyone

Not a fan of Rolex or having a limited budget? No problem. Seiko always has something for everyone. What I would recommend are the “Tuna Can”and the “Turtle”. The “Tuna” is a very raw hardcore dive watch featuring big and chunky cases made of different materials. There are many sizes and colours to choose from and there are both quartz and mechanical versions. It has a rich history as well. The “Turtle” is also liked by many given its special case shape. It is less chunky than the “Tuna” and more wearable to many. These Seiko sports watches are in a league of their own.

The Seiko Pressage line is for those who may not like big sports watches. I would recommend those with enamel or Urushi dials in the Pressage line. These dress watches are a bargain given their craft on the dials. You can find any Seiko watches on Chrono24 here.

Conclusion

Sitting at home buying you favorite watch has not been easier than now with the help of Chrono24. Any watch can be acquired easily and safely without any hassle. A worry-free shopping experience of luxury watches awaits you there. Check out Chrono24 now!

 

Panerai is a brand most renowned for its heritage and size.  When I first got into watches in 2009, I bought a Pam312 as my first mechanical watch as I was very impressed by its style and size. The military DNA is definitely a major reason for its success. However, with too many unlimited limited editions and identical models being produced, the brand’s value has seriously declined and that is well reflected in the pre-owned market. If you are looking for a Panerai that could keep its value in the future, what will it be?

T-25 models

Tritium dials were last used in around 2008 by Panerai. While they were abandoned by Rolex in around 1997, Panerai continue using tritium till around 2008. A T-25 model is collectible for the lovely patina it can develop on its dial. Limited T-25 Submersible models are good choices as they were limited editions produced in tritium. Most of them have developed yellowish patina which is extremely good-looking. Another good choice is the Pam243 of I or J series that is shown here as it was produced in tritium for only two years. It is also the last stainless steel Submersible to be produced in 44mm.

Pre-V models

Pre-Vendome models are very well-known among Panerai enthusiasts. These watches were produced from around 1993 to around 1997 when the Vendome group purchased Panerai. Their buckles and straps are different from those we see on the Panerai models today. Most of them have developed lovely patina on their dials and that is another reason why they are very sought-after.

Simplicity

Panerai is all about simplicity. When it was produced for the Italian naval commandos, it was a matter of life and death. A Panerai to me is meant to be plain and simple. Modern references such as the 372 and 422 are good choices. The 721 with blued hands and no excessive element on the dial is also nice. While complications are not bad things but Panerai models that are too complicated just simply do not work .

Vintage Rolex has been more than popular for the last few years. Prices have skyrocketed and many watch enthusiasts have joined the market. While most of us hope to buy nice pieces at reasonable prices, more of us end up having bought something that is not easy to sell when we need that sum of money back. The formula for buying vintage Rolex is about rarity, quality and enough preparation.

Period Correctness

There are different dials for each reference of vintage Rolex. For each production period, a certain type of dial was used on them. Therefore, a watch is only correct if the dial of it matches the serial number and the year. One thing that hurts the value of a watch the most is when the dial does not match the serial number of it. Other than the dial, the insert, the bracelet, the clasp, the case back and sometimes the bezel have to be period correct so that the watch/s value is least affected. Before buying, do your homework to avoid mistakes.

The dial

A relumed or restored dial can hurt the value of a watch very much. Therefore, when you inspect a watch, do remember to check if the lume has been redone. Also, do check if the fonts of the printings are original and whether the paint of the dial (the matte part) has been redone. This can be seen if the printings look faded. On a gilt dial, make sure that the gilt printings are a slight step lower than the lacquer. Make sure that you check the lume plots with UV light and a loupe. The edge of the dial is also important. It is best if the edge is clean and the minute markers should not be broken.

The hands

Relumed hands are accepted by some collectors as long as the reluming job is done well. However, relumed hands can be more easily spotted as they may have a different pattern and texture than the markers’ lume plots. Hands are not very expensive to buy so they do not hurt the watch’s value a lot.

The case

While buying any vintage Rolex, make sure you look for those with cases that are not over-polished. The original bevels should still be seen and the lugs should be fat and even. The crown guards should look strong as well and the serial and reference numbers should be clearly seen. Do not go for those with serials 4.2-4.9 as they are service cases. Recut or reworked cases are not recommended. Strong cases are not common so finding one is always a good thing as cases are ,unlike dials, mostly worn after so many years. What is also important is the fonts of the serial and reference number. You need to check carefully if they match the original fonts of Rolex and see if those numbers are reworked.

The insert, bracelet and clasp

Vintage Rolex inserts are getting more expensive now so getting a correct one when buying the watch can save you some money. Check what type of font should be on the insert of your watch and make sure the back color of the insert is correct. A correct bracelet is also important but it does not hurt the value of a watch too much as buying one is not very expensive. Always do look for a bracelet with the matching clasp with correct clasp code that matches the year of the watch.

Knowing what the original ones look like

It is the most important thing in buying vintage Rolex. You should have a good idea of how the original ones look like in order to rate what you are about to view or buy. This can give you a clear idea of what the case, hands, and dial should look like and help you decide how polished a watch is.

When it comes to chronographs, one may easily think of the Rolex Daytona, the Omega Speedmaster, or the Zenith El Primero chronograph. Now, let’s move one level up. The holy trinity, AP, Vacheron, and Patek also have some finely made models with well-decorated movements and meticulously made cases and dials. But the Lange Datograph has long been regarded as the king in this field. It was also a wake-up watch for PP when it was first released. However, is the 1815 Chronograph another good choice for you?

The major difference between the Datograph and the 1815 Chrono is that the 1815 is a pure chronograph while the Datograph has an additional big date window and the current Datograph Up/Down has a power reserve function. The big date window is a signature of the brand as it also appears on other model such as the Lange 1. The big date does add practicality to the watch while the dial layout on the Datograph remains very comfortable to the eye as the date window forms a perfect triangle with the two sub dials. Perfect German geometry. On the 1815 Chrono, the Breguet numerals make the dial look way more classic and they give the dial a vintage hue while the dial of the Datograph looks more modern.

 

The two watches’ movements are very similar with the Datograph one having the power reserve and the big date function. Both movements have insane movemet architecture. The double assembly of each movement of Lange is also something no other brands can match.  The use of German silver without any treatment makes it more difficult with assembly and finishing. The golden hue of the movement plates after they have been oxidized is amazing to behold. The materials used are also top-notch as solid gold chatons and blued steel screws are used. The balance cocks are hand-engraved and each is different.

When it comes to size, the 1815 has a 39.5mm case size while the current Datograph has a 41mm case size. The old Datograph was sized at 39mm without the power reserve function. Some say the old Datograph looks more classic at that size and without the power reserve indicator.

The 1815 Chronograph is a good choice for anyone who looks for a pure chronograph. It is a flyback chronograph with a lot of class. The first generation 1815 chronograph with a reverse panda dial is the best with its champagne sub dials contrasting with the black dial. These dials, just like all Lange dials, are made of solid silver.

However, if you want a chronograph with some modern touches, the Datograph is the way to go. The big date window is sharp and easy to read while the power reserve indicator reminds you when to wind the watch. The bigger size also suits modern wrists.

All in all, if I have to choose between the two, the first generation 1815 Chronograph with a reverse panda dial is my choice. What about you?