Panerai is a brand most renowned for its heritage and size. When I first got into watches in 2009, I bought a Pam312 as my first mechanical watch as I was very impressed by its style and size. The military DNA is definitely a major reason for its success. However, with too many unlimited limited editions and identical models being produced, the brand’s value has seriously declined and that is well reflected in the pre-owned market. If you are looking for a Panerai that could keep its value in the future, what will it be?
T-25 models
Tritium dials were last used in around 2008 by Panerai. While they were abandoned by Rolex in around 1997, Panerai continue using tritium till around 2008. A T-25 model is collectible for the lovely patina it can develop on its dial. Limited T-25 Submersible models are good choices as they were limited editions produced in tritium. Most of them have developed yellowish patina which is extremely good-looking. Another good choice is the Pam243 of I or J series that is shown here as it was produced in tritium for only two years. It is also the last stainless steel Submersible to be produced in 44mm.
Pre-V models
Pre-Vendome models are very well-known among Panerai enthusiasts. These watches were produced from around 1993 to around 1997 when the Vendome group purchased Panerai. Their buckles and straps are different from those we see on the Panerai models today. Most of them have developed lovely patina on their dials and that is another reason why they are very sought-after.
Simplicity
Panerai is all about simplicity. When it was produced for the Italian naval commandos, it was a matter of life and death. A Panerai to me is meant to be plain and simple. Modern references such as the 372 and 422 are good choices. The 721 with blued hands and no excessive element on the dial is also nice. While complications are not bad things but Panerai models that are too complicated just simply do not work .
Well said, you must be a watch guru or some sort of collectors!
Panerai is the last watch brand for men. Like it or not some have wrist larger than Mark Cho and can carry something heavier than a pumpink latte frappucino. At any point at lunchtime nearby the landmarks there are more Daytonas than in the entire Swiss cantons. Rolex is now factually a brand for women if we exclude SeaDweller line (much hated in HK anyway) and a look around at lunch time and all female lawyers wear GMTs, Subs, Daytonas… more Daytonas.
Panerai is not a brand that will see multiple in value but will retain masculinity. Unless we all want yalla yalla become gender neutral with a 36mm tiffany dial op.
Panerai is for war. Panerai is for men.
Panerai has brought the watch world many things for sure.