Vintage Rolex has been more than popular for the last few years. Prices have skyrocketed and many watch enthusiasts have joined the market. While most of us hope to buy nice pieces at reasonable prices, more of us end up having bought something that is not easy to sell when we need that sum of money back. The formula for buying vintage Rolex is about rarity, quality and enough preparation.
Period Correctness
There are different dials for each reference of vintage Rolex. For each production period, a certain type of dial was used on them. Therefore, a watch is only correct if the dial of it matches the serial number and the year. One thing that hurts the value of a watch the most is when the dial does not match the serial number of it. Other than the dial, the insert, the bracelet, the clasp, the case back and sometimes the bezel have to be period correct so that the watch/s value is least affected. Before buying, do your homework to avoid mistakes.
The dial
A relumed or restored dial can hurt the value of a watch very much. Therefore, when you inspect a watch, do remember to check if the lume has been redone. Also, do check if the fonts of the printings are original and whether the paint of the dial (the matte part) has been redone. This can be seen if the printings look faded. On a gilt dial, make sure that the gilt printings are a slight step lower than the lacquer. Make sure that you check the lume plots with UV light and a loupe. The edge of the dial is also important. It is best if the edge is clean and the minute markers should not be broken.
The hands
Relumed hands are accepted by some collectors as long as the reluming job is done well. However, relumed hands can be more easily spotted as they may have a different pattern and texture than the markers’ lume plots. Hands are not very expensive to buy so they do not hurt the watch’s value a lot.
The case
While buying any vintage Rolex, make sure you look for those with cases that are not over-polished. The original bevels should still be seen and the lugs should be fat and even. The crown guards should look strong as well and the serial and reference numbers should be clearly seen. Do not go for those with serials 4.2-4.9 as they are service cases. Recut or reworked cases are not recommended. Strong cases are not common so finding one is always a good thing as cases are ,unlike dials, mostly worn after so many years. What is also important is the fonts of the serial and reference number. You need to check carefully if they match the original fonts of Rolex and see if those numbers are reworked.
The insert, bracelet and clasp
Vintage Rolex inserts are getting more expensive now so getting a correct one when buying the watch can save you some money. Check what type of font should be on the insert of your watch and make sure the back color of the insert is correct. A correct bracelet is also important but it does not hurt the value of a watch too much as buying one is not very expensive. Always do look for a bracelet with the matching clasp with correct clasp code that matches the year of the watch.
Knowing what the original ones look like
It is the most important thing in buying vintage Rolex. You should have a good idea of how the original ones look like in order to rate what you are about to view or buy. This can give you a clear idea of what the case, hands, and dial should look like and help you decide how polished a watch is.