Hong Kong Watch Blog

When it comes to pilot watches, Breguet has always been a big name among collectors. The Type XX, the brand’s signature pilot watch collection, has just received an update not long ago. While the new watches pay homage to their vintage ancestors, the Type XX 3803 stands out as an anniversary limited version.

Designed for the French Naval Airforce in the 1950s, the Type XX has its historic significance in military pilot watches. The pedigree of the line can hardly be matched by any other pilot watch collection. The ref 3803 was released in 2010 to mark the 100th anniversary of the French Aeronavale and it was made as a limited edition o 1000 pieces.

Sized at 39mm, it is a perfect watch for wrists of any sizes. As a military pilot watch, you may find it more elegant than subtle. That is also why Breguet pilot watches are special as the craftsmanship is unlikely to be found from other manufactures. The 3803 has a highly polished steel case featuring Breguet’s signature coined edge. What makes this ref stands out is actually its bezel which is in black lacquer with raised numerals. The craftsmanship on the bezel that has so many details is unmatched. The watch itself, from a distance, is quite recognizable as it is the only ref in Breguet’s pilot watches to have such a bezel. The shine of the whole piece is greatly enhanced when you compare it to the polished bezel of the 3800. The dial itself features luminova Arabic numerals which are very easy to read and the layout it very neat as well. The omission of the date function makes the dial more balanced than those with a date window. What makes the watch even more retro is the use of the onion crown which is not commonly seen in modern pieces.

Function wise, as always, it is a flyback chronograph. A flyback chrono allows you to time another event without resetting. The movement is a Breguet 581 automatic chrono movement. The watch comes with a padded calf strap in black and a deployant buckle.

Overall, the 3803 is a modern classic that will stand the test of time. The size, dial, case and its meticulously made bezel are some of the best you can find in a pilot watch. While hunting for a pilot military watch at the price range of 60-70k HKD, the 3803 is not a bad choice at all.

Omega is pretty much a synonym to the Speedmaster, the moon watch, especially after the Moonswatch hype. While there are many Speedmaster models available out there in different sizes and materials, a good 145.022 with tritium lume is still hard to beat as a classic 42mm Speedy.

The 145.022 was introduced in 1968 to replace the 145.012 and it remained to be in production until around 1981. Powered by the classic 861 manually wound movement, the watch features a 42mm case and a tritium dial with three sub dials displaying the seconds, minutes counter and hours counter. It gives a very classic Speedy looks at a very reasonable price (30-40k HKD) Compared to more vintage Speedy like the Ed White or the Board Arrow, the 145.022 is much more affordable.

When one looks for a 145.022, he should carefully check whether there are blemishes on the dial as many of them were not very well waterpoof. Moist could get into watch and damage the dial especially the lume. It is important to have a clean dial as it affects the watch’s value a great deal. An unpolished case would also be very much appreciated.

When we talk about pilot watches, the Breguet Type XX 3800 is certainly on the list. The coin-edge caseband and the flyback chronograph make it one of the most recognizable watches out there. Originally made for the French Ministry of Defense in the 1950s, the civilian Type XX was produced in 1995.

At 39mm, the case size can suit most wrists. Unlike most pilot military watches, the 3800 is a more classy choice with its polished bezel and case. The case features a very beautiful coin-edge caseband which is a signature of Breguet watches.

The early version of the 3800 features a gold capped crown. This version was produced for one year only. The bezel, unlike later ones, is unidirectional. The ‘T’ on ‘Breguet’ is also different without the stroke. The flyback movement is a Breguet 582 which is based on the Lemania 1377.

This example here features a tritium dial with beautiful patina and it is available.

When it comes to vintage Rolex, the DRSD is absolutely one of the most talked-about model and could be many collectors’ grail watch. Being the first generation Sea-dweller, it is historically important. The features seen on this reference impact deeply the models to follow.

While the MK1 and MK2 are rarer, more elusive and much more expensive, the MK3 and MK4 are easier to collect. The MK4 is slightly more popular than the MK3 given its sharper red color on the red fonts. There are a few things except period correctness that I look for in a DRSD.

First, the case has to be unpolished. In an unpolished case, the lug holes are razor sharp in a natural way. There should be ample distance between the holes and the edges on the case. The bevels should be thick and sharp, and the edges should also be razor sharp. On the back side of the case, I look for a razor sharp edge around the non crown guard side of the case. That edge should be very thick and rise above the metal around the caseback area. The same sharp edge should be found around the crown guard side, just that the edge may not rise up so much like the other side. The crown guard on an unpolished case should be beefy but not rounded. There should be a slight step on the surface of the crown guard (this is hard to come by as that step can be easily erased by sleeve polish) The overall case size should be beefy as well.

On the dial, there should not be any missing minute marker. More often than not, the 60, 45 and 30 minute marker can be found partly missing due to poor technique in repair and assembling . The dial has to be free of marks and stains. The black paint of the maker should not show signs of having been redone (lighter color of the fonts is often a sign) The red fonts have to remain sharp and dot-like. The tritium lume has to be clean without black dots (often signs of moisture getting in) There should not be a big missing part in each lume plot. The edge of the dial is also important. There are stain or broken parts there very often. Therefore, I look for a clean edge around the dial that is free of damage. On the lume plots and the tritium on the hands, there should be tritium dust of two to three colors (red, green and orange) underr UV. Of course, the color of the hands has to match that of the lume plots. Always watch out for relumed hands which can be told by the texture and color of the tritium there.

The bezel has to be the early type bezel which stands taller than later version. The insert has to be a MK3 fat font insert. Inserts with chips, cracks or a big area of loss of paint are not preferred. Loss of paint happens often on the edge. The bracelet has to be a 9315 with 380, 285, 385 endlinks. The 285 and 385 are rather hard and expensive to come by. After 1976, the bracelet should be 93150 with 585 endlinks.

It is uneasy for a DRSD to have all the perfect elements unless it is from the original owner or it has been very well taken care of. Very often, an unpolished case may come with a less desirable dial while a pumpkin dial may come with a poorer case. Hands may often have been replaced and the color may not match that of the lume. Therefore, if you come across an unpolished one with a clean dial and the hands match the lume, don’t miss it.

Has Rolex run out of ideas? YES AND ＮＯ.

The highlight of this year’s new releases is definitely the new Daytona references. Released in 2016 and produced for only 7 years, the 116500 series have been replaced by the new 126500 that has a new case design and a new movement. Also, the platinum Daytona now has a display caseback that showcases the new movement. The ceramic Daytonas now has a metal ring around the ceramic bezel and all new models get some new dial designs, some of which resemble the 1652x series Daytona while the metal ring resembles the design of 626x series. The display caseback of the platinum 126506 is likely a reply to modified Rolex which has been in vogue for some years. It is not the first time Rolex has done something in response to popular demand. The release of the Oysterflex rubber straps was also likely an answer to the trend of installing Rubber B straps.

While there is not much too new on the Daytona, Rolex is known not to make changes too radical to their existing models. To me, the case of the new Daytona has lost its slimness and become similar to those of the Sub and GMT. The metal rings of the ceramic models is are the major feature distinguishing between them and the first ceramic generation. Notably, the green and meteorite dials are now discontinued. I have a feeling that the meteorite dial won’t stay out of the lineup for too long.

Who says Rolex cannot be creative? The real surprise of this year’s show is actually the Daydate puzzle. Coming in rose old, white gold and yellow gold with a turquoise or orange enamel dials with puzzles and rainbow sapphire markers, the date wheel displays emojis instead of dates while the day wheel displays “Happy,” Eternity,” “Gratitude,” Peace,” “Faith,” “Love,” and “Hope.” This is an unexpected release from a conservative manufacture like Rolex and looks like an extension of the colorful Oyster Perpetuals. Surely these are no traditional Daydates and some may even find them ugly, but these models are going to be a big hit among rappers and NBA stars. These new models could also help promote the Daydate to younger collectors who may find the presidential Rolex a bit old-fashioned.

(All images are from Google. Courtesy to the owners of these images.)

The newly released Longines Pilot Majetek could be one of the best reissue this year. With a rich history in aviation, Longines has done a good job reissuing one of its most signature pilot watches.

Longines has indeed a rich heritage in pilot watches. The Lindberg, Czech Air Force and many other signature pieces have linked the brand firmly with aviation. The Czech Air Force pilot watch was reissued a few years ago as the Heritage 1935. It is loyal to the original in many ways but the new Pilot Majetek is just more attractive with its bolder design.

What catches my attention most is the case design of the new Pilot Majetek. The 43mm cushion case is way bolder than the previous 41mm one. The razor sharp looking lines of the case brings the watch a lot of character and a modern look. It gives a very strong wrist presence that a pilot watch should give. The matte black dial is also very well executed with beige retro radium style luminova numerals, a rail track and a seconds sub dial at 6 o’ clock. Most importantly, it does not have a date window. On another note, I do feel that the watch will look even better if the dial is dark brown in color.

The fluted bezel is another highlight of the watch. It really adds a lot of vintage style to such a modern piece. It looks way more pronounced than the one on the Heritage 1935. The beige triangle works with the bezel which can be turned in both directions to count time for pilot (which we probably won’t be using). The watch is water resistant to 100m and it is also magnetic resistant.

Some say the size of the watch makes it look like a Czech Air Force with steroid. However, I think it is a very nice modern take of the Czech Air Force. It looks bold and attractive. The watch can look cool on its leather strap or the khaki nato it includes.

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 The term ‘tropical dial’ is used to describe any Rolex dial which turns into a different color (usually brown but sometimes in other colors too) due to the defects of the paint. Those with a beautiful tropical dial can usually fetch high prices. The Daytona is no exception. Vintage ones such as the 6263,6265, neo-vintage one like the 16520 Patrizzi are all very sought after by collectors as each of these tropical dials is unique. The ‘most modern’ tropical dial Daytona is probably the 116520 ‘Panna’ cream dial version.

It is believed that cream dials on 116520 are only found on P,K and Y series watches. The paint of the white dials has its defect that when the paint varnishes slowly, the dial color turns creamy bit by bit, making it collectible like other tropical Rolex watches.

What is more interesting is that it could well be the last tropical Rolex reference, at least for the Daytona line. We have not seen any dial that would in time change into a different color after the ‘Panna’ 116520.

Just like any other Daytona references, the first series is always the most collectible (or the last series, actually). The 116520 is no exception. For the ‘Panna’ dial, P series ones are among the best if you are to collect one of them. It is the first series produced in 2000, overlapping with its predecessor 16520. The production number of the P series should be less than the other two K, Y series as part of the P series production was for the 16520 Zenith Daytona. Likely the P series 116520 were only produced for half a year.

The price trend of the ‘Panna’ 116520, in the long run, is likely to go up due to its scarcity especially for the P series and those that have aged to a beautiful creamy hue. As creamier dials are way more expensive, it may be better to purchase those that have yet to turn very creamy so that your timepiece can appreciate in time as the dial turns creamier in time.

One of the biggest news in 2022 for the watch industry is probably the CPO programme launched by Rolex. CPO stands for Certified Per-Owned, meaning that Rolex will sell pre-owned watches certified by them. This is the first time Rolex has entered the market of pre-owned watches.

The CPO programme has started in Europe in major Bucherer boutiques. It will certainly expand to the rest of the world soon. For now we can see only a limited range of models are being sold in the programme and they are mainly watches in the ceramic bezel era.

But how will the CPO programme impact the market? It is still too early to say. 2022 saw watch prices sliding down from its peak in Feb. Some see the CPO programme as an attempt from Rolex to stabilize watch prices. The prices of watches from the CPO programme are around 20-30% higher than market prices now. Whether it can attract clients to buy at their boutiques is still unknown as many shops offer better prices and the certification may not be justified by the premium paid since the market of pre-owned Rolex has been operating for a very long time in an orderly manner.

However, in the long run, the CPO programme may help guarantee that Rolex watches keep their value in a stronger way. As many know, Rolex has price increase at least once a year. That is one of the main reasons why Rolex watches keep their value. With the launch of the CPO programme, there is now an official Rolex price for used Rolex watches. This may serve as a ‘price list’ for used Rolex. This ‘price list’ may well be used as a reference when shops or individuals try to sell their Rolex. In this way, prices of used Rolex will unlikely see a big drop in the future.

That said, Rolex is still subject to economic fluctuations. The grey market for used and new Rolex watches has been operating for many years. As we do not know the scale of the CPO programme, it is hard to say how big an impact it will cause to the market. If Rolex starts buying in pre-owned watches in a large scale, it will definitely help stabilize and raise the value of pre-owned Rolex. However, if the scale of the CPO programme is too small, it may not be able to make an impact big enough in the pre-owned market as the number of pre-owned Rolex in the market now is still way bigger than the number of Rolex in the CPO programme for now.

It is good news for Rolex to finally officially enter the pre-owned market after a few big watch groups. Buyers can buy certified Rolex without having to worry too much as they come with Rolex warranty. This is very positive on the brand’s image and will definitely help people who are new to the world of Rolex. In the long run, more buyers will enter the Rolex market and this is definitely what Rolex is happy to see.

When it comes to Speedmaster, many will look at the 42mm Moon Watch first. The MK40 gained popularity when Hodinkee collaborated with Omega and produced a Hodinkee 10th anniversary edition watch inspired by the MK40. The MK40 has a special dial and many interesting features that is a lot to offer for a watch under 30k hkd.

The Speedmaster Reduced is slightly smaller at around 38mm rather than 42mm. For some wrists, this could be slightly too small but for most wrists this size is just perfect. There are a few dial variations for the MK40 but the variation featured here is the most attractive among them. With a black Arabic dial, the tritium numerals, if aged beautifully, add a lot of character and color to the dial.

The most interesting thing of the MK40 is that it offers a lot of functions for a watch at this price. It is a chronograph while it also offers Day/Month display windows and a hand that indicates the date around the outer dial. The pusher at ten o’ clock is for adjusting the day while the months is adjusted by the date indicating hand. The best thing about the date ring is that it gives you a very clear sense how many days remain in a particular month. The small seconds are displayed on the dial at 9 o’ clock which is also a 24 hour indicator, a very practical function that shows you whether it is the morning or the night when you adjust the watch.

 

The richness of colors is one of the most impressive features of this watch. The chrono hands are red while half of the small seconds dial is blue. With beautifully aged pumpkin numerals, the mix of colors is amazing. At under 30k hkd, this is definitely one of the best choices on the market. The piece featured here has pumpkin tritium numerals which is key to the aesthetics of this watch to me. As tritium is no longer used in watch dials, these ones with beautifully aged numerals will become more collectible in the future.